The Emotion of Essence: Inside Vanina Muracciole’s World of Independent Perfumery April 23, 2025

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A graduate in chemistry and from ISICPA in Versailles, she began her career at MANE in Milan and Grasse before returning to Paris to work alongside the master perfumer of the Jean Patou fashion house. In 2012, she embarked on the adventure of independence to diversify her collaborations and established herself on the “Rive Gauche” in Paris. Since then, she has achieved more than 100 wins and continues to collaborate regularly with both institutional perfume houses and more exclusive brands.

Drawing on her vast experience, Vanina now dares to refine her artistic identity while putting her talent at the service of the brands she works with. Whether inspired by the Corsican mountains, her passion for music, or the antique perfumery books she collects, she strives to translate the very essence of her client’s story into fragrance. A true professional in the world of perfumery, Vanina has also surrounded herself with experts with whom she collaborates regularly to offer far more than just olfactory creation. She is able to oversee the manufacturing of scented products, address olfactory marketing challenges, design collections, or even perfume an exhibition. Her curiosity knows no bounds.

What inspired you to pursue a career as a perfumer, and what have been the main steps in your creative journey so far?

I have always wanted to be a perfumer since I was a child, after discovering the trail of a magical fragrance that transported me. I wanted to create fragrances with the same emotional impact as what I had experienced. I attended preparatory classes and then studied chemistry to enter ISIPCA in Versailles. I immediately joined the fragrance house Mane, and five years later, I joined Maison Jean Patou, which had an in-house perfumer. I have had my own fragrance development and creation company for almost ten years.

What led you to choose Yuzu essential oil and Indian vetiver (Pondicherry) as “key” ingredients for the Diana perfume?

I discovered Ultra International’s natural materials while developing Diana for Masque Milano. I wanted a real burst of freshness at the top and a sensual woody note at the base. I didn’t hesitate; I immediately tested these two materials in the composition, and they brought exactly what I was looking for. The Pondicherry vetiver oil is extraordinary—it’s a fragrance in itself, and the Yuzu has a transparency that is close to purity.

How do you approach the process of selecting ingredients for a perfume, and what made these two ingredients stand out for you?

It is essential for us perfumers to regularly discover (or rediscover) raw materials. What I loved about Ultra International is the olfactory range of the many raw materials; many are excellent and original. Yuzu and Pondicherry vetiver suited my current project, but other materials are also in development for other projects, such as Kunzea, Virilina, or their Sichuan pepper CO2.

Can you share with us the creative process that led to the final composition of the perfume? How did our ingredients influence the overall scent?

The clients wanted a fragrance inspired by natural and strong femininity. A woman in the middle of nature, the forest, strong, courageous, and seductive. I worked on a floral chypre with a very woody base. The Yuzu gave me ultra-freshness with a perfectly balanced touch of acidity. Vetiver is one of the woods I consider perfectly unisex. Its sensuality adds character and depth to this feminine fragrance.

Masque Milano is known for its niche and artistic approach to perfumery. How does this collaboration fit into their brand vision, and how do our ingredients enhance this vision?

I have been working with Masque Milano for years. I have total artistic freedom on their projects, and their briefs are extremely well-thought-out and detailed in terms of the emotions the new fragrance should evoke. Both in character and the originality of the juice. These two materials had never been used in the European market before—perfect!

Can you tell us about other brands you’ve worked with? What has been the most special creative journey?

I work with many other brands, both in fine fragrances and in cosmetics or ambiance. I have a very strong connection with the Jovoy/Jeroboam brand, for which the development of Gozo was remarkable. The founder, François Henin, asked me to systematically increase the strength of the juice until I pushed the dosages to the extreme, just for fun. We ended up with an international success that never loses momentum!

How do you balance creative freedom and technical precision when working with natural ingredients, especially on a project like this?

It’s important to test the evolution of new raw materials, both alone on strips and within a composition. I chose different dosages of Yuzu and Vetiver, tested separately and then together in the formula. It’s a balancing act.

What is the importance of the relationship between perfumers, brands, and ingredient suppliers in creating niche perfumes like this?

It’s crucial. As an independent perfumer, the relationship with the brand founders is essential. We work directly, and the creative process draws its inspiration from human relationships. The connection, communication (and humor) are very important to me. The raw material supplier is also directly involved. They are the ones who introduce us to new materials and, in a way, feed our creative process. When I add new materials to my compositions, they must be extremely responsive regarding supply, legal documents, and available quantities.

What message or emotion do you hope the final perfume will convey to the wearer?

Comfort and strength. The fragrance is an immaterial shield that leaves an unforgettable imprint. Both for the wearer and those who perceive it.

-Vanina Muracciole’s