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Les Années Folles
SIMPPAR Paris 2025
At SIMPPAR Paris 2025, Ultra International celebrated Les Années Folles “The Crazy Years” a theme inspired by the vibrant 1920s. This era in Paris was a time of artistic creativity, freedom, and exuberance, an era famously known as Les Années Folles. The city became a magnet for visionary artists, writers, and performers from around the world, including Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and Josephine Baker.
This era also holds special meaning for Ultra International, as it marks the beginning of our own journey in the world of fragrances. To honor this legacy, we brought a unique olfactory experience to our showcase in Paris. Visitors were immersed in a carefully curated selection of ingredients that captured the spirit of the 1920s such as vetiver India, oakwood CO₂, sweet orange, gurjun balsam, hay absolute, cardamom, turmeric leaf and red champaca. Each material was chosen to reflect the depth, richness, and artistic flair of that extraordinary time.
The response was heartening. Our space became a meeting point for perfumers, creatives, and partners from around the world, exchanging ideas and inspirations. The mood throughout SIMPPAR was vibrant and collaborative. As the event ended, our team joined the celebration in full vintage style raising a toast to a successful gathering of the global fragrance community. With warm memories from Paris, we now look forward to SIMPPAR 2026, which will take place in Grasse, the historic heart of perfumery.
Rooted in Citrus, Rich in Culture The IFEAT Argentina Study Tour Experience
-Lina Piccininni
General Manager Ultra International Inc
Argentina plays a significant role in the global essential oils market, especially as a key supplier of citrus-based oils. Thanks to its favorable climate, robust agricultural infrastructure, and deep-rooted expertise in citrus and aromatic plant cultivation, Argentina has positioned itself as a leading exporter of high-quality essential oils. The country is the world’s largest producer and exporter of lemon essential oil. Its well-integrated citrus processing industry allows lemons to be harvested, juiced, and processed for oil and peel products all within the same companies. This ensures quality control and traceability, which are key selling points for global buyers.
The primary lemon-growing region, located around Tucumán in the northwest, offers ideal conditions for lemon production. Argentina also produces orange, grapefruit, and mandarin oils, along with a variety of native and specialty essential oils.
The IFEAT study tour adventure began on Sunday, April 6th, as delegates arrived in the vibrant city of Buenos Aires, landing at either Ezeiza International Airport or Jorge Newbery Airport. After a smooth transfer, guests checked into the elegant Sofitel Recoleta Hotel, nestled in the heart of the city. The atmosphere buzzed with anticipation as participants received their welcome rucksacks and prepared for the week ahead.
That evening, the group gathered for a briefing session at the hotel to set the stage for the tour. As twilight settled over the city, we transferred to the stylish Cauce Restaurant in Puerto Madero. Over a gourmet dinner sponsored by San Miguel, conversations sparked and connections formed, setting a positive tone for the days to come.
On Monday, April 7th, the tour began bright and early with breakfast at the hotel. By 8:00 AM, everyone had checked out and was en route to the first industry visit: Flavour House Saporiti, located in Pilar’s industrial park. There, delegates explored the company’s innovative operations and learned about its contributions to the flavor world. Late morning brought a transfer back to the city, this time to the Casasur Bellini Hotel, where Litoral Citrus hosted a presentation paired with a catered lunch. The discussions offered rich insight into the processing of a wide range of citrus fruits, including oranges, grapefruits, mandarins, and lemons. Next, the group took a short walk to visit Fueguia, an artisanal perfumery known for its exquisite scents and sustainable practices.
Divided into smaller groups, delegates enjoyed an intimate and immersive experience exploring the creative intersection of botanicals and perfumery. By 3:00 PM, it was time to head to Jorge Newbery Airport to catch the next flight onward to the Salta region, where the next chapter of the journey awaited.
On Tuesday, April 8th, the group journeyed north into the stunning landscapes of Salta province. The four-hour drive to Cafayate was breathtaking, as we were immersed in scenic valleys and dramatic terrain. Upon arrival, a warm welcome and lunch awaited us at the elegant Grace Hotel, a serene escape nestled among the vineyards. The afternoon featured a key highlight: an Essential Oil Workshop held at the Grace Club House and sponsored by Berjé. A series of presentations introduced other producers and suppliers from Argentina, highlighting essential oils beyond citrus. With a coffee break and vibrant discussions, the session offered a perfect blend of learning and networking. The day closed with a refined dinner at Piatelli Vineyards, where Jucofer hosted an unforgettable evening surrounded by Cafayate’s famed vines.
On Wednesday, April 9th, the group set off once again, this time heading toward Tucumán. The journey took us along a scenic route, crossing the Pre-Andes formation at an impressive 3,042 meters above sea level. Midday, we paused for lunch in the picturesque mountain town of Tafí del Valle. During the stop, representatives from the Northwest Argentine Citrus Association (ACNOA) the organization that unites the region’s citrus production, processing, and marketing sectors provided an insightful overview of the lemon value chain in Northwest Argentina.
In the afternoon, we visited Citromax, one of the country’s leading citrus producers. There, they explored the company’s extensive processing operations and learned about its commitment to sustainability. Thursday, April 10th, was packed with activity. The day began with a visit to a local Experimental Station, offering insight into regional agricultural research. That was followed by in-depth tours of Vicente Trapani and FGF Trapani, two industry leaders known for advanced citrus processing and essential oil production. A delicious on-site lunch was hosted by FGF, offering a chance to recharge before more exploration. The evening featured a scenic drive to Villa Polli, where Vicente Trapani treated the group to dinner under the stars in the leafy suburb of Yerba Buena.
On Friday, April 11th, delegates visited Lillo, a botanical research institution just steps from the hotel, delving into the science behind native flora. The foundation is dedicated to the research, protection, and dissemination of knowledge in natural sciences, including botany, zoology, and geology. The morning continued with a visit to Citrusvil, where the group toured local lemon groves. These vast, sun-drenched groves—organized in perfectly aligned rows are at the heart of one of the world’s largest lemon-producing operations. Walking through these groves was a sensory experience: the crisp scent of citrus oils lingered in the air, while vibrant fruit stood out against the lush green foliage.
“Throughout the tour, delegates explored and discussed in depth the growing, harvesting, processing, and diverse uses of many essential oils particularly within Argentina’s vibrant citrus and essential oil sectors.”
In the afternoon, a visit to COTA further illuminated the complex supply chains and innovations in citrus production. At COTA, we had the chance to participate in a handson experience grafting our very own lemon trees! The team guided us through the process: starting with a sturdy rootstock, we carefully selected a scion, made precise cuts, and aligned the cambium layers so they could fuse and grow together. We wrapped the graft with tape, labeled our trees, and left them to do their magic. It was a deeply satisfying experience knowing our graft might one day bear fruit in Argentina. As the sun set, attendees headed to Raco for a team-building session followed by a cocktail dinner sponsored by COTA, celebrating the collaboration and camaraderie built over the week.
During the tour, we also participated in a fun and meaningful team-building exercise centered around a lively game of soccer. Through interactive challenges, we strengthened trust, leadership skills, and collaboration in a dynamic and engaging way. The activity offered a fresh perspective on what open communication, mutual support, and effective teamwork truly look like in the workplace.
The final field day, Saturday, April 12th, began with a hearty breakfast and check-out from the Hilton Garden Inn. The group visited San Miguel, one of the region’s largest and most globally active citrus companies. This was followed by a closing lunch at the scenic San Pablo Country Club, hosted by Citrus & Allied, offering the perfect blend of relaxation and reflection.
Throughout the tour, delegates explored and discussed in depth the growing, harvesting, processing, and diverse uses of many essential oils particularly within Argentina’s vibrant citrus and essential oil sectors. We were generously hosted by the companies we visited, treated to thoughtful gifts, and enjoyed delicious local cuisine and cultural entertainment throughout the journey.
Special thanks go to the Local Organising Committee -Sergio Dávalos and Andres Gonzalez, our tour agents Yulia Romero and Matias Molina, and the many Argentinian companies that participated. The entire IFEAT team also deserves sincere congratulations for delivering yet another memorable and enriching Study Tour. We found the experience not only wonderful and unforgettable, but also, in many ways, life changing.
The Functional Beauty of Natural Aromatic Molecules
-By Juan Carlos Hurtarte,
Development Manager LATAM, Ultra International
A personal reflection from Juan Carlos, Ultra Business Development Manager LATAM
When I first started writing AE con IA, it came from a deep curiosity and honestly, a kind of reverence — for the way nature speaks to us through scent. Fragrance has always held meaning for me: it connects us to memory, to place, to emotion. But over time, I began to see that these molecules are not just beautiful they are profoundly functional. They tell stories of survival, communication, and balance that we’re only beginning to understand. Through my writing, I’ve explored dozens of natural aromatic compounds, but five in particular have stood out to me recently: linalool, cinnamaldehyde, citral, geranyl acetate, and eugenol. Each one, in its own way, reveals something essential about the harmony between scent and purpose in the plant world.
Let me start with Linalool — a molecule I’ve come to appreciate not just for its soft, floral aroma, but for its gentle strength. Found in lavender, basil, coriander, and rosewood, it doesn’t just calm the senses; it soothes inflammation, supports the immune system, and acts as a natural shield. Its elegance lies in how effortlessly it combines comfort and protection.
Cinnamaldehyde, on the other hand, is fiery and bold — the soul of cinnamon. I’ve long admired how this molecule, once used simply to flavor food or warm a room with its scent, is now being studied for powerful antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. It reminds me that ancient wisdom often precedes scientific validation — and that nature’s most intense aromas often carry equally intense benefits.
Then there’s Citral, the bright, lemony burst found in lemongrass and Litsea cubeba. At first, I saw it as a top note in fragrance — lively, uplifting. But writing about it revealed a deeper story: citral is used in the synthesis of Vitamin A, offers anti-inflammatory properties, and is being explored for use in therapeutic formulations. It’s a fresh scent, yes — but also a potentally.
Geranyl acetate is another favorite of mine. Sweet, fruity, and gently floral, it forms the backbone of many rose-like compositions and can be found in oils like citronella, lemongrass, and geranium. I’ve come to see it as a quiet workhorse: not only does it enhance aroma beautifully, but it also plays a role in natural repellent formulations and supports skin wellness through antifungal and anti-inflammatory actions.
And finally, there’s Eugenol — the warm, spicy essence of clove and cinnamon leaf. This one connects me most to tradition. It’s been used in dentistry, cooking, and rituals for centuries. Writing about it has reminded me how a single molecule can bridge generations, cultures, and even disciplines — from natural medicine to sustainable chemistry.
What ties all these together — and what continues to inspire me — is what I like to call functional elegance. These are not just scents; they are solutions. They protect us, soothe us, and guide us toward a more intuitive way of living. In a world that often seeks the synthetic or the superficial, these molecules ground us in something real, something wise.
For me, the process of writing about them has become much more than a professional interest — it’s a journey of learning, discovery, and connection. With each article, I try to listen a little more closely to what nature is saying, and to help others hear it too.
So next time you wear a perfume, sip a spiced tea, or apply a plant-based product, I hope you pause for just a moment. There is beauty in that scent, yes — but also function. Purpose. Intelligence. A quiet conversation between you and the natural world. And that, to me, is the real power of fragrance.
A Roller Coaster Ride for Brazil’s Citrus Market in 2025/26
Let’s buckle up and enjoy the ups and downs of the season!
-By Felippe Biz
As 2025 begins, Brazil’s citrus market faces both opportunities and challenges. With the first report of the year shedding light on the 2025/26 crop, it’s clear that the season will be anything but smooth. From unpredictable weather to global demand dynamics, the citrus industry seems set for a roller coaster year.
A TOUGH OUTLOOK FOR ORANGE SUPPLY
Friday, January 3, 2025
Once again, orange supply in Brazil’s São Paulo state and the Triângulo Mineiro region may struggle to meet demand in the 2025/26 season. Although October 2024 brought much-needed rain, breaking nearly a year of below-average rainfall, its effects remain uncertain. Orchards,weakened by prolonged water stress, saw a strong bloom in mid-October. However, experts warn that the summer weather in 2025 will determine the fate of the crop. A hot summer could lead to further setbacks for already fragile orchards, potentially keeping orange supplies tight. By February, a clearer picture of the drought’s long-term impact is expected. In the meantime, growers and industry stakeholders are bracing for more challenges, as the citrus belt struggles to recover from a challenging 2024.
2024/25 SEASON: A SIGNIFICANT DECLINE
The 2024/25 orange crop was estimated at 223.14 million boxes of 40.8 kg—a steep 27.4% decline compared to the 2023/24 season. According to Fundecitros (Citrus Defense Fund), this represents one of the lowest levels of production for São Paulo and the Triângulo Mineiro in years.
Such a sharp drop in production has left orange juice stocks nearly depleted. Cepea (Center for Advanced Studies in Applied Economics) highlights that even with reduced orange juice exports in 2024/25, Brazil’s stockpiles will see a drastic decline. This depletion underscores the need for a strong 2025/26 crop to ensure even minimal recovery for the sector. Adding to the pressure, domestic demand remains high, with factory deliveries averaging 105R$ (17.5 USD) per 40.8 kg box of oranges.
GLOBAL DEMAND AND FLORIDA’S CHALLENGES
Brazil’s orange juice market isn’t only under strain from local issues—global factors are also at play. Florida, a major player in the citrus industry, is grappling with its own challenges. According to the USDA, Florida’s 2024/25 orange production is projected at just 12 million boxes of 40.8kg—a significant 20% drop from October’s estimate of 15 million boxes. This decline is attributed to the combined effects of citrus greening and Hurricane Milton, which hit Florida’s orangegrowing regions in October 2024.
As a result, the U.S. will need to import more orange juice from Brazil, adding further upward pressure on domestic prices. In January 2025, orange juice prices hit an all-time high of $7,431 USD per ton—a 1% rise from January 2024 levels.
2025/26: UNCERTAINTY AHEAD
Despite the late 2024 rains, the 2025/26 season is unlikely to deliver above-average yields. Late blooms in non-irrigated areas and below-average fruit development have left experts doubtful. Even irrigated orchards, which bloomed earlier in July 2024, are underperforming. These conditions, coupled with dwindling stocks and tight production, suggest that orange prices will remain high throughout 2025.
INVESTMENTS IN THE CITRUS BELT
As the high incidence of citrus greening continues to plague São Paulo, investments are shifting to other states such as Mato Grosso, Paraná, Goiás, and Minas Gerais. São Paulo’s record levels of citrus greening in 2024 have discouraged new plantings, particularly in heavily affected regions. The Triângulo Mineiro has emerged as an alternative hub for orange cultivation, but challenges remain. Limited land availability and water resources for irrigation pose obstacles to large-scale expansion.
TAHITI ACID LIME: A GLIMPSE OF RELIEF
While the orange market faces tight supplies and rising prices, Tahiti lime producers have a different story to tell. The supply of Tahiti limes is expected to surge at the start of 2025, with peak harvest beginning in January and lasting until mid-March. During this period, prices are likely to remain low, limiting earnings for growers. To offset these challenges, producers are focusing on exports and industrial processing. This approach may help stabilize the market, even as the high supply continues to weigh on prices.
CONCLUSION
Brazil’s citrus market is entering 2025 with a mix of uncertainty and opportunity. While oranges face a tough road ahead, both domestically and globally, investments in new regions and the diversification into limes provide some glimmers of hope. As we wait for February’s updated outlook, the industry remains braced for another unpredictable season.
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A graduate in chemistry and from ISICPA in Versailles, she began her career at MANE in Milan and Grasse before returning to Paris to work alongside the master perfumer of the Jean Patou fashion house. In 2012, she embarked on the adventure of independence to diversify her collaborations and established herself on the “Rive Gauche” in Paris. Since then, she has achieved more than 100 wins and continues to collaborate regularly with both institutional perfume houses and more exclusive brands.
Drawing on her vast experience, Vanina now dares to refine her artistic identity while putting her talent at the service of the brands she works with. Whether inspired by the Corsican mountains, her passion for music, or the antique perfumery books she collects, she strives to translate the very essence of her client’s story into fragrance. A true professional in the world of perfumery, Vanina has also surrounded herself with experts with whom she collaborates regularly to offer far more than just olfactory creation. She is able to oversee the manufacturing of scented products, address olfactory marketing challenges, design collections, or even perfume an exhibition. Her curiosity knows no bounds.
What inspired you to pursue a career as a perfumer, and what have been the main steps in your creative journey so far?
I have always wanted to be a perfumer since I was a child, after discovering the trail of a magical fragrance that transported me. I wanted to create fragrances with the same emotional impact as what I had experienced. I attended preparatory classes and then studied chemistry to enter ISIPCA in Versailles. I immediately joined the fragrance house Mane, and five years later, I joined Maison Jean Patou, which had an in-house perfumer. I have had my own fragrance development and creation company for almost ten years.
What led you to choose Yuzu essential oil and Indian vetiver (Pondicherry) as “key” ingredients for the Diana perfume?
I discovered Ultra International’s natural materials while developing Diana for Masque Milano. I wanted a real burst of freshness at the top and a sensual woody note at the base. I didn’t hesitate; I immediately tested these two materials in the composition, and they brought exactly what I was looking for. The Pondicherry vetiver oil is extraordinary—it’s a fragrance in itself, and the Yuzu has a transparency that is close to purity.
How do you approach the process of selecting ingredients for a perfume, and what made these two ingredients stand out for you?
It is essential for us perfumers to regularly discover (or rediscover) raw materials. What I loved about Ultra International is the olfactory range of the many raw materials; many are excellent and original. Yuzu and Pondicherry vetiver suited my current project, but other materials are also in development for other projects, such as Kunzea, Virilina, or their Sichuan pepper CO2.
Can you share with us the creative process that led to the final composition of the perfume? How did our ingredients influence the overall scent?
The clients wanted a fragrance inspired by natural and strong femininity. A woman in the middle of nature, the forest, strong, courageous, and seductive. I worked on a floral chypre with a very woody base. The Yuzu gave me ultra-freshness with a perfectly balanced touch of acidity. Vetiver is one of the woods I consider perfectly unisex. Its sensuality adds character and depth to this feminine fragrance.
Masque Milano is known for its niche and artistic approach to perfumery. How does this collaboration fit into their brand vision, and how do our ingredients enhance this vision?
I have been working with Masque Milano for years. I have total artistic freedom on their projects, and their briefs are extremely well-thought-out and detailed in terms of the emotions the new fragrance should evoke. Both in character and the originality of the juice. These two materials had never been used in the European market before—perfect!
Can you tell us about other brands you’ve worked with? What has been the most special creative journey?
I work with many other brands, both in fine fragrances and in cosmetics or ambiance. I have a very strong connection with the Jovoy/Jeroboam brand, for which the development of Gozo was remarkable. The founder, François Henin, asked me to systematically increase the strength of the juice until I pushed the dosages to the extreme, just for fun. We ended up with an international success that never loses momentum!
How do you balance creative freedom and technical precision when working with natural ingredients, especially on a project like this?
It’s important to test the evolution of new raw materials, both alone on strips and within a composition. I chose different dosages of Yuzu and Vetiver, tested separately and then together in the formula. It’s a balancing act.
What is the importance of the relationship between perfumers, brands, and ingredient suppliers in creating niche perfumes like this?
It’s crucial. As an independent perfumer, the relationship with the brand founders is essential. We work directly, and the creative process draws its inspiration from human relationships. The connection, communication (and humor) are very important to me. The raw material supplier is also directly involved. They are the ones who introduce us to new materials and, in a way, feed our creative process. When I add new materials to my compositions, they must be extremely responsive regarding supply, legal documents, and available quantities.
What message or emotion do you hope the final perfume will convey to the wearer?
Comfort and strength. The fragrance is an immaterial shield that leaves an unforgettable imprint. Both for the wearer and those who perceive it.
-Vanina Muracciole’s
Paris in the 1920s was a giant party seducing visitors from across the globe. From appreciating artist ateliers to enjoying café at La Coupole, there was a surrealness through the city’s veins. Spectators soaked up this exuberant ambiance of Paris that pulsed with a vibrant energy, and a cultural renaissance fuelled by liberation and artistic expression.
A GLAMOROUS PLAYGROUNG
Paris in the 1920s was labelled as ‘Les Années folles’ or The Crazy Years. This was an era of lliberation and exuberance after the horrors of World War I. Montmartre was the heart of Parisian glamour and home to the iconic Moulin Rouge. This legendary cabaret, with its windmill silhouette, was a spectacle of dazzling costumes, risqué dance routines, and a whirlwind of entertainment. The can-can was the rage, and the atmosphere was one of uninhibited joy. While the Crazy Horse de Paris might not have existed in its current form in the 1920s, the spirit of daring and avant-garde performance was alive in venues across the city. Cabarets showcased innovative acts, pushing boundaries and captivating audiences with their boldness.
A CITY OF HIDDEN DELIGHTS
Paris had an infectious energy in this decade that made people feel a sense of freedom. With it followed a thirst for excitement and a taste for the forbidden. Unlike America, Paris offered a relaxed attitude towards alcohol, though there were still secrets to be discovered. Speakeasies, though not illegal in the same way as in the US, still held an air of mystery and exclusivity. Hidden behind unmarked doors or in the back rooms of unassuming cafes, these clandestine bars offered a haven for those seeking a more intimate and adventurous experience. Jazz music filled the air, classic and innovative cocktails flowed freely, and the conversation buzzed with the energy of a city
embracing change.
These speakeasies were more than just places to drink. They were cultural hubs where artists, writers, and socialites mingled, forging connections and shaping the spirit of the age. Beyond the speakeasies, traditional bars and cabarets also thrived. But even in these established venues, the influence of the era’s rebellious spirit could be felt. The speakeasies and bars of 1920s Paris were a reflection of the city, signifying a place where tradition and modernity intertwined, where secrets were whispered and dreams were pursued.
A FASHION REVOLUTION
The influence of this rebellious spirit was visible in the fashion scene as well. Gone were the constricting corsets and elaborate gowns. In their place emerged a new, liberated silhouette that reflected the modern woman’s changing role in society. Coco Chanel was at the forefront of this revolution. Her designs emphasised comfort and practicality, with simple lines and loose shapes that allowed women to move freely. The garçonne look, with its dropped waistlines and shorter hemlines, became the defining style of the era.
This newfound freedom in fashion extended beyond daywear. Evening dresses shimmered with sequins and beads, often featuring daringly low necklines and backs. The focus was on glamour and sophistication, with designers like Jeanne Lanvin creating exquisite gowns that captured the spirit of the age. While the banana dress as we know it, associated with Josephine Baker’s iconic performances, came a bit later in the decade, it’s important to remember that the seeds of this daring and expressive style were already being sown in the early 1920s.
Parisian fashion was all about pushing boundaries and embracing individuality. Accessories played a crucial role in completing the look. Cloche hats were omnipresent often tilted at a jaunty angle, while long strands of pearls added a touch of elegance. Women embraced makeup, with bold lipstick and rouged cheeks becoming fashionable. The fashion scene in 1920s Paris was a reflection of the city itself, dynamic, innovative, and unapologetically glamorous. It was a time when women dared to break the mould and express themselves through their clothing, leaving a lasting legacy on the world of fashion.
A WHIFF OF MODERNITY
The cultural and social change of this decade extended to the world of fragrance. Scents were considered more than just pleasant smells. They were an expression of the changing world and represented freedom, independence, and self-expression. Women were breaking free from traditional constraints, and their perfumes reflected this newfound sense of liberation. Gone were the heavy, overpowering scents of the past. In their place emerged lighter, more modern fragrances that captured the spirit of the age.
Perfumers experimented with new ingredients and techniques, creating scents that were both sophisticated and daring. Launched in 1921, Chanel No. 5 became an instant classic. This iconic fragrance embodied the modern woman, confident, elegant, and expressing herself. Its abstract, floral-aldehyde composition was revolutionary, and it quickly became a favourite of fashionable women. Guerlain was another brand that made its mark on the 1920s fragrance scene. Shalimar, with its sensual blend of vanilla, incense, and citrus, was a bold and exotic choice. It evoked images of faraway lands and passionate romance, perfectly capturing the era’s adventurous spirit. Other popular perfumes of the time included Lanvin’s Arpège, a floral symphony that exuded femininity, and Molinard’s Habanita, a smoky, woody scent that was considered quite daring for its time.
A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
The 1920s was also a time of culinary innovation and sensory exploration. Chefs and mixologists were pushing boundaries, experimenting with new combinations and techniques to create culinary experiences that were both exciting and memorable. The world of cocktails saw mixologists experiment with aromatic ingredients to create unique and tantalising concoctions. Lavender, with its calming floral notes, was used to infuse gin or vodka, adding a touch of elegance to classic cocktails like the Aviation. Citrus oils, such as lemon and orange, were staples in many drinks. They provided a refreshing zest to cocktails like French 75, which became a popular choice. When it came to culinary exploration, chefs embraced the use of herbs and spices to enhance flavours.
Rosemary, with its earthy and slightly piney aroma, was a popular choice for roasted meats and vegetables. Thyme, with its subtle minty and lemony notes, was used to season soups, stews, and sauces. Vanilla, with its warm and comforting scent, was a favourite in desserts. Almond extract, with its nutty and slightly sweet flavour, was another popular ingredient in baked goods. 1920s in Paris was a whirlwind of sensory delights, a cocktail of cultural revolution, daring fashion, intoxicating fragrances, and vibrant flavours. From smoky jazz clubs to elegant salons, the city pulsed with a creative energy that continues to resonate, leaving an indelible mark on the world of art, style, and joie de vivre.
Key elements of a creative fragrance formulation process
-By Thomas Amantea
VP Sales France and Italy, Ultra International
CONCEPT AND INSPIRATION
A clear creative vision or story behind the fragrance is crucial as it sets the direction for the composition. This inspiration can come from emotions, nature, culture, art, or even trends. Having a story or a defined vision helps anchor the creative process and creates a narrative that resonates with the end user.
However, creativity isn’t always linear. Sometimes, the vision emerges through experimentation and iteration. A creative perfume, much like art, often evolves as it is being crafted.
INGREDIENT SELECTION
The choice of ingredients defines the character of a fragrance. A mix of natural and synthetic ingredients brings complexity. While natural ingredients offer authenticity and richness, synthetics provide uniqueness (with captives), stability, and performance. Today, perfumers can access incredible materials in both natural and synthetic categories. Some perfumers choose to work exclusively with naturals, which is more challenging but offers a unique depth and authenticity. Regardless of the approach, knowing your materials and your accords—like a music composer knowing their notes and chords—is essential. This expertise allows a perfumer to translate creative ideas into the fragrance they are creating. Without it, creating a good creative fragrance is nearly impossible.
BALANCE OF NOTES
A successful fragrance relies on a harmonious interplay of top, heart, and base notes, ensuring it unfolds beautifully over time. The perfumer must carefully decide how the fragrance evolves: will it transition seamlessly from sparkling top notes to deep, rich base notes, or will it create the illusion of a singular, unchanging impression? This balance is akin to storytelling in olfactory form, where each note plays a role in the narrative arc of the fragrance, captivating the wearer from the first spray to the final lingering traces.
INNOVATION AND ORIGINALITY
Creativity often lies in pushing boundaries. Combining unexpected accords or emphasizing unconventional ingredients can give a fragrance its unique signature. Sometimes, focusing on a single, unexpected material in a composition can transform it into something truly memorable. This risk-taking and willingness to explore uncharted territories often set great perfumes apart from the ordinary.
TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE
Beyond creativity, a fragrance must meet functional and technical criteria. Longevity, diffusion, and adherence to regulatory standards are critical to ensuring the fragrance performs well in real-world conditions. An extraordinary fragrance that lasts only a few hours, or one that lacks projection, may fail to meet consumer expectations. A “technically good perfume” strikes the perfect balance between artistry and practicality, making it both memorable and wearable.
MARKET RELEVANCE
Understanding the target audience is crucial to aligning the fragrance with market expectations. For example, the preferences of Asian consumers may lean towards lighter, fresher scents, while European or American markets may favor richer, more complex compositions. Some niche perfumers deliberately disregard market trends to preserve their artistic freedom and authenticity. While this approach can result in groundbreaking creations, it depends entirely on the final objective of the product. Whether the goal is commercial success or artistic expression, the fragrance must resonate with its intended audience.
CONCLUSION
A creative fragrance formulation is both an art and a science. It demands a perfect balance of inspiration, technical expertise, and market awareness. Ultimately, the most successful fragrances are those that tell a compelling story, perform impeccably, and connect emotionally with their audience. “I believe creativity comes with knowledge, and they both need to work hand in hand to create a unique and magnificent perfume.”
– Thomas Amantea
Perfumery is an art that dates to ancient Greece. Once considered solely a tool for seduction, aromas, scents, and beauty, it is no longer sold as a superficial element, as feeling good gets equal weightage. What if fragrances could take away stress and make you smile with just a whiff? That is what neuroscents are offering. Neuroscents are mood enhancers, putting the power of feelings in the customers hands. Whether the need of the hour is the relax, feel energised or help focus, there is a scent serving each purpose. Today, companies are using AI and neuroscents to create formulas that are driven by individual choices. This is a wellness product line that offers solutions in multiple forms. You can use candles, diffusers, bath oils or creams to gain the “feel good” factor and add a bounce to your step.
SO, WHAT EXACTLY ARE NEUROSCENTS?
As the name suggests, these are scents that affect the brain. The research suggests that aromas are beneficial beyond the regular effects as fragrances work as sensitive triggers to make one feel elated, or energetic or even, improve sleep patterns. The tagline for neuroscents is ‘emotional benefits.’ It may seem like aromatherapy, but neuroscents are more in tune with aromachology– the study of influence of odours on human behaviour. It relates to the psychological, rather than therapeutic effect scents have on moods.
THE SCIENTIFIC ASSISTANCE
For decades international organisations have been trying to document the impact of scents on brains. The International Fragrance Foundation (IFF) has tested numerous fragrance notes and mapped trigger receptors in the brain. After conducting a detailed study involving neuroscience, and aided by AI, they identified six emotions that can be triggered by scents. Popular perfumery brands have used this research to create formulas tapping into these emotions. Floral scents seem to induce a calming effect, while woody citrus scents are an energising option. Musk, leather, and a blend of wood and floral scents create a recipe for a seductive fusion. Since neuroscents are at a nascent stage, product formulation happens under the guidance of neuroscientists. Like aromatic plant oils are used in case of skincare products, neuroscents use aromatic oils as well. The ingredients are either tested by scientists or appear in medical journals. And, in presentation, the end product is no different from other beauty products on the shelf that smell luxurious. Though, the sole intention of their creation is to impact emotions.
NEUROSCENTS MEAN BUSINESS
With neuroscents being ‘en vogue,’ beauty brands are investing in research and technology. L’Oreal partnered with a neurotechnology company to develop scent choice experiences. Yves Saint Laurent stores used headsets to map brain activity to understand individual behaviour pertaining to scents. They created electroencephalogram (EEG) to find the corelation between emotions and scents. Givenchy added rose extracts to its bestseller to enhance the appeal factor of the product. And, a Spanish fragrance firm collated brain readings from 45 million men to finesse their formula for a cologne. Neuroscents have offered a new line of products for niche perfumers as well. They are creating ultra-personal formulas. Brands in South Korea created personalised bath bombs using real time biodata. Netherlands boosts of an algorithm-based perfumery that delivers personalised aromas within minutes after analysing questionnaires filled by clients.
THE WINNING FORMULA
Which are the fragrances that can work as neuroscents? Rose is potentially one such aroma. It is known to heighten the release of serotonin, which is renowned for its happiness inducing effects. Bergamot is known to fuel endorphin release. Agarwood with a warm, sweet, smoky profile helps ease stress and increase relaxation. Agarwood aids in the reduction of hyperactivity between glands that respond to stress. This, in turn, modulates theta brainwaves, which are triggered in a state of relaxation and activities like meditation. These feel-good chemicals are known to increase the state of awareness.
THE ENTRY FORM
Neuroscents can be made part of the daily routine and the easiest way to introduce them is through scented candles. It is observed that a neuroscent candle is a nice way to start or finish a day. customers also enjoy using candles while cooking or doing chores around the house, as it creates a calm and soothing atmosphere. However, when used in the form of candles, neuroscents need time to alter the mood. So, it is suggested to keep them lit for a couple of hour.
DO NEUROSCENTS WORK?
Most neuroscientists will answer in the affirmative to the above. This is because the brain processes scents when inhaled. The olfactory nerve is stimulated with smells. This triggers a response in the amygdala, the part of the brain which is responsible for processing emotions. Ultimately, the cycle is complete with the release of neurotransmitters like endorphins and GABA. New research is now being aimed at using the power of neuroscents to improve memory and focus. Scientists believe that repeated exposure to certain scents can aid in the enhancement of cognition and memory at any age. During a study conducted by the University of california-Irvine, researchers focused on word recall tests. For six months they studied brain activity and used MRI scans to assess cognitive function and physical changes before and after the trial. The data showed a 226% improvement in cognitive performance for those using essential oils for a few hours in the night. They exhibited better verbal learning and memory compared to the control group. 75% of all human emotions are triggered by smell. Even then, the formula may not work for all. There is enough evidence to suggest that preference for scents is firmed in childhood. This is due to a process called imprinting, where the brain stores memories from the first experience of an aroma. Unpleasant ones are especially hard to alter. For example, if someone had a bad experience with the smell of rose, it is unlikely that perfumes or creams smelling like rose will release pleasure endorphins for this person. In today’s stressful environment, neuroscents could be a game changer. Giving an individual the power to choose their feelings, and elevate them by simply inhaling, is an intriguing proposition.
Over the last few years, multiple incidents across the globe have prompted a shift in the customer mindset towards immunity boosting and wellness foods. Functional foods and beverages have caught the imagination of the consumer. One is increasingly conscious of what one eats, and how it benefits the body. Though this is not a flash in the pan. For a while now, functional foods and beverages have been enticing customers. Since the pandemic, there has been a growing demand for foods that cater to specific body requirements, rather than provide a holistic wellbeing experience.
BUT IS IT A NEW CONCEPT?
Food and beverages have provided therapeutic benefits for centuries. In fact, it was first propagated by the father of medicine, Hippocrates over 2500 years ago. He said, “let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” Over time, focus shifted towards medical advancements, the importance of dietary intake took a backseat. However, the pandemic changed the scenario and put food front and centre again. Food and beverages with documented health benefits comprise this functional segment. Superfoods like kombucha, coconut water, matcha, goji, edamame, turmeric, black garlic, dragon fruit, are on most shopping lists. On the grains front, we see a significant increase in the demand for farro, chia, quinoa, and millet. Customers are hitting the functional food and beverage section to address issues related to sleep, energy, mood swings, concentration, skin, and hair ailments.
THE FUNCTIONAL FOOD AISLE
Functional snacks are a major segment that is being targeted by brands. In tune with customer requirements, they are offering products that tap into specific needs. For instance, there are several who seek an instant boost of energy. For them US coffee major, the Whole coffee co., developed a range of products. They created easily consumable bars from coffee beans that provide an instant energy kick. A common stress related aliment is sleep deprivation. Functional foods have increasingly been targeting this concern. Functional foods also help cognitive focus, which can be crucial for improved performance in the workplace. Apart from this, customers also seek beauty related solutions with functional foods. This segment has a vast scope, and companies are offering a wide range of products to improve skin, and hair quality, including sweets containing biotin, Vitamin E, and zinc.
DRINKS WITH AN EXTRA PUNCH
With regard to the beverage market, the consumer is looking for more than just hydration. The desire is beverages enhanced with minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and dietary fibres. Energy drinks were the pioneer product in the functional beverage segment. As they don’t offer any nutritional benefit, and contain high levels of sugar, there is a shift in consumer interest towards sports drinks and bottled water with added vitamins. These functional beverages provide additional health benefits. Kombucha, aloe vera, coconut water, green tea, and moringa tea are popular for their immunity boosting, stress relieving, antioxidant, and gut cleaning properties.
HEALTHY AND SWEET
The functional food industry is evolving and no longer restricted to healthy snacks and beverages. Confectionery has been a major contributor to the segment lately. Functional chocolates along with gelato and baking mixes are all the rage. Functional gums have been in the market for a while. Primarily made from xylithol and baking soda, these gums, are said to boost energy, cease smoke pangs, work as breath fresheners, help in tooth whitening and address calcium fortification. Functional jellies with herbal extracts and vitamins too are gaining popularity. Plantbased gelatos created from young coconut meat and carrying the goodness of matcha green tea, rosewater, and saffron are no longer left to imagination. Soothing chocolate chip mixes with holy basil, reishi, and ashwagandha are a reality too. And, frozen yogurt with probiotics, and non-dairy ice creams with a boost of vitamins are also gaining popularity. All these sweet pleasures offer something extra, making them popular entrants in the functional food and beverage space.
NATURALS ALL THE WAY
Another major draw towards functional food and beverages is their natural origins. Increased customer awareness has brought a shift in mindset. Pills and supplements are considered artificial. A vast majority are looking to complete their nutrition requirements through natural sources. Several global surveys have shown a remarkable bend towards natural sources of vitamins and nutrients.
MIND OVER MATTER
Today, people are vocal about mental health issues and they have become a primary focus. A recent international study noted that mental wellbeing was a common concern among all age groups. The current consumer is interested in foods that provide personalised nutrition requirements. Generic health and wellness food and beverages don’t have enough takers these days and eating well is more than just the food on the table. The concept of eating consciously- produced foods is gathering steam, since it is considered a healthy practice. Ethically and sustainably sourced food and beverages are being preferred. Customers are conscious of what they eat, and how it is produced. Green and environment-friendly certifications have gained immense importance in the customer’s mind. Functional food and beverages are here to stay. Increasing customer awareness is only aiding its rise. And, with health becoming the primary concern worldwide, this segment is bound to grow exponentially.
A captivating scent with intensity adding sensuality to fragrances and blends, patchouli has an ardent fan base. Its earthy, distinctive aroma instantly evokes the spirit of the 1970s, a decade dedicated to flower power. Patchouli has the distinct ability to linger on the skin for long durations. Its beautiful afterglow and long-lasting nature make it a striking combination. Laden with warm and sensual notes, patchouli has a rich, earthy, woody, and marginally sweet aroma. It has been a preferred fragrance for centuries, but the 1970s have a special connection with this aroma.
The origins
Native to Southeast Asia, patchouli has been a regular in perfumery for thousands of years. Initially used to treat skin ailments, the western world got enticed by this fragrance only in the 19th century. The origins of the name can be traced to Tamil Nadu in South India. In their native tongue, patchouli means ‘green leaf’. The plant left this southern Indian state captivated by its rich and deep aromatic palette. The Tamils primarily used patchouli for medicinal purposes, as an insect repellent, and even as an herbal formulation in teas.
The fragrance travelled to the Middle East via the Silk Route and it is believed that Europe was introduced to the exotic fragrance by none other than, Napoleon. These trade routes supplied exquisite textiles, spices, and other distinct objects to the west. To keep them free of moths and other insects, they were packed with patchouli leaves. Once these boxes were Unpacked, the fragrance of patchouli engulfed the merchants in Europe. Soon the aroma of patchouli came to define the exotic objects arriving from the Far East. This was the fragrance that symbolised everything contrary to western culture. Patchouli had already established itself as a rebellious fragrance.
Flower power connect
The 1970s were symbolised by rebellion, freedom and self-expression. Taking the mid-1960s revolution forward, this decade made “flower power” its slogan. It was an expression of passive resistance and non-violence. Coined by American poet Allen Ginsberg, the slogan transformed anti-Vietnam war protests into peaceful spectacles. Ginsberg encouraged people to hand out flowers to press, politicians, policemen, and spectators. The bohemian spirit, counterculture, distinctive, the essence of patchouli embodied the spirit of the decade. And it wasn’t a surprise to see patchouli emerge as the fragrance of choice for this transformative era. Advocates of flower power reveled in the glory of patchouli and were seen sporting the fragrance regularly. Its whiff was unmissable at key congregations like the iconic Woodstock festival.
Even for those referred to as hippies during the decade, the aroma became a strong ally. Men and women with a carefree spirit, casual dressing and sporting long hair were captivated by the slightly minty undertones and earthy aroma of patchouli. In fact, it is believed that young Americans and Europeans flocked India in the late 60s and early 70s and bought patchouli with them. The aroma of this native Southeast Asian plant created an aura of companionship in this decade.
“For centuries patchouli has been celebrated for its healing and soothing nature. It is known to promote a sense of tranquility and well-being.”
A multifaceted fragrance
For centuries patchouli has been celebrated for its healing and soothing nature. It is known to promote a sense of tranquility and well-being. Apart from being an enticing fragrance, it has various skin benefits. This herbal plant has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and several healing properties. The essential oil extracted is thus a popular ingredient in skincare products like creams, soaps and lotions.
• Skin and hair care: Patchouli possesses cleansing and fortifying properties. It works wonders to balance the sebum production of skin. The oil is thus a preferred choice in anti-dandruff preparations. It aids in reducing scalp irritations and encourages hair growth.
• Immunity booster: Patchouli’s antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties make it an excellent antidote for fighting infections. It prevents rashes or wounds from getting infected and works wonders in combatting nail fungi.
• Wellness Elixir: Patchouli has a soothing nature and is beneficial in relieving stress and ease the mind, body an soul. It can also heighten senses and provide an air of confidence due to its poignant, deep and musky aroma.
An evolved fragrance
From change in preferences to regulations, several factors have contributed to the transformation of fragrances. While the folks in the 70s preferred heavy, earthy fragrances, it is lighter, fresher and subtle aromas that are the rage today. Blends created today are catering to this market. Sustainable creations are the need and demand of today’s market and compositions have also been adjusted to take rare or disappearing ingredients into account. They have either been substituted with synthetic replacements or formulations altered to reduce their usage. These reformulations have impacted the strength, smell and staying power of fragrances. Patchouli has one of the most fascinating histories. From Napoleon Bonaparte and anti-war protests to its brush with fashion, patchouli has left its mark in each decade and the 70s revel in all its glory.