Ultra International B.V.
This is HOME.php
c
A graduate in chemistry and from ISICPA in Versailles, she began her career at MANE in Milan and Grasse before returning to Paris to work alongside the master perfumer of the Jean Patou fashion house. In 2012, she embarked on the adventure of independence to diversify her collaborations and established herself on the “Rive Gauche” in Paris. Since then, she has achieved more than 100 wins and continues to collaborate regularly with both institutional perfume houses and more exclusive brands.
Drawing on her vast experience, Vanina now dares to refine her artistic identity while putting her talent at the service of the brands she works with. Whether inspired by the Corsican mountains, her passion for music, or the antique perfumery books she collects, she strives to translate the very essence of her client’s story into fragrance. A true professional in the world of perfumery, Vanina has also surrounded herself with experts with whom she collaborates regularly to offer far more than just olfactory creation. She is able to oversee the manufacturing of scented products, address olfactory marketing challenges, design collections, or even perfume an exhibition. Her curiosity knows no bounds.
What inspired you to pursue a career as a perfumer, and what have been the main steps in your creative journey so far?
I have always wanted to be a perfumer since I was a child, after discovering the trail of a magical fragrance that transported me. I wanted to create fragrances with the same emotional impact as what I had experienced. I attended preparatory classes and then studied chemistry to enter ISIPCA in Versailles. I immediately joined the fragrance house Mane, and five years later, I joined Maison Jean Patou, which had an in-house perfumer. I have had my own fragrance development and creation company for almost ten years.
What led you to choose Yuzu essential oil and Indian vetiver (Pondicherry) as “key” ingredients for the Diana perfume?
I discovered Ultra International’s natural materials while developing Diana for Masque Milano. I wanted a real burst of freshness at the top and a sensual woody note at the base. I didn’t hesitate; I immediately tested these two materials in the composition, and they brought exactly what I was looking for. The Pondicherry vetiver oil is extraordinary—it’s a fragrance in itself, and the Yuzu has a transparency that is close to purity.
How do you approach the process of selecting ingredients for a perfume, and what made these two ingredients stand out for you?
It is essential for us perfumers to regularly discover (or rediscover) raw materials. What I loved about Ultra International is the olfactory range of the many raw materials; many are excellent and original. Yuzu and Pondicherry vetiver suited my current project, but other materials are also in development for other projects, such as Kunzea, Virilina, or their Sichuan pepper CO2.
Can you share with us the creative process that led to the final composition of the perfume? How did our ingredients influence the overall scent?
The clients wanted a fragrance inspired by natural and strong femininity. A woman in the middle of nature, the forest, strong, courageous, and seductive. I worked on a floral chypre with a very woody base. The Yuzu gave me ultra-freshness with a perfectly balanced touch of acidity. Vetiver is one of the woods I consider perfectly unisex. Its sensuality adds character and depth to this feminine fragrance.
Masque Milano is known for its niche and artistic approach to perfumery. How does this collaboration fit into their brand vision, and how do our ingredients enhance this vision?
I have been working with Masque Milano for years. I have total artistic freedom on their projects, and their briefs are extremely well-thought-out and detailed in terms of the emotions the new fragrance should evoke. Both in character and the originality of the juice. These two materials had never been used in the European market before—perfect!
Can you tell us about other brands you’ve worked with? What has been the most special creative journey?
I work with many other brands, both in fine fragrances and in cosmetics or ambiance. I have a very strong connection with the Jovoy/Jeroboam brand, for which the development of Gozo was remarkable. The founder, François Henin, asked me to systematically increase the strength of the juice until I pushed the dosages to the extreme, just for fun. We ended up with an international success that never loses momentum!
How do you balance creative freedom and technical precision when working with natural ingredients, especially on a project like this?
It’s important to test the evolution of new raw materials, both alone on strips and within a composition. I chose different dosages of Yuzu and Vetiver, tested separately and then together in the formula. It’s a balancing act.
What is the importance of the relationship between perfumers, brands, and ingredient suppliers in creating niche perfumes like this?
It’s crucial. As an independent perfumer, the relationship with the brand founders is essential. We work directly, and the creative process draws its inspiration from human relationships. The connection, communication (and humor) are very important to me. The raw material supplier is also directly involved. They are the ones who introduce us to new materials and, in a way, feed our creative process. When I add new materials to my compositions, they must be extremely responsive regarding supply, legal documents, and available quantities.
What message or emotion do you hope the final perfume will convey to the wearer?
Comfort and strength. The fragrance is an immaterial shield that leaves an unforgettable imprint. Both for the wearer and those who perceive it.
-Vanina Muracciole’s
Paris in the 1920s was a giant party seducing visitors from across the globe. From appreciating artist ateliers to enjoying café at La Coupole, there was a surrealness through the city’s veins. Spectators soaked up this exuberant ambiance of Paris that pulsed with a vibrant energy, and a cultural renaissance fuelled by liberation and artistic expression.
A GLAMOROUS PLAYGROUNG
Paris in the 1920s was labelled as ‘Les Années folles’ or The Crazy Years. This was an era of lliberation and exuberance after the horrors of World War I. Montmartre was the heart of Parisian glamour and home to the iconic Moulin Rouge. This legendary cabaret, with its windmill silhouette, was a spectacle of dazzling costumes, risqué dance routines, and a whirlwind of entertainment. The can-can was the rage, and the atmosphere was one of uninhibited joy. While the Crazy Horse de Paris might not have existed in its current form in the 1920s, the spirit of daring and avant-garde performance was alive in venues across the city. Cabarets showcased innovative acts, pushing boundaries and captivating audiences with their boldness.
A CITY OF HIDDEN DELIGHTS
Paris had an infectious energy in this decade that made people feel a sense of freedom. With it followed a thirst for excitement and a taste for the forbidden. Unlike America, Paris offered a relaxed attitude towards alcohol, though there were still secrets to be discovered. Speakeasies, though not illegal in the same way as in the US, still held an air of mystery and exclusivity. Hidden behind unmarked doors or in the back rooms of unassuming cafes, these clandestine bars offered a haven for those seeking a more intimate and adventurous experience. Jazz music filled the air, classic and innovative cocktails flowed freely, and the conversation buzzed with the energy of a city
embracing change.
These speakeasies were more than just places to drink. They were cultural hubs where artists, writers, and socialites mingled, forging connections and shaping the spirit of the age. Beyond the speakeasies, traditional bars and cabarets also thrived. But even in these established venues, the influence of the era’s rebellious spirit could be felt. The speakeasies and bars of 1920s Paris were a reflection of the city, signifying a place where tradition and modernity intertwined, where secrets were whispered and dreams were pursued.
A FASHION REVOLUTION
The influence of this rebellious spirit was visible in the fashion scene as well. Gone were the constricting corsets and elaborate gowns. In their place emerged a new, liberated silhouette that reflected the modern woman’s changing role in society. Coco Chanel was at the forefront of this revolution. Her designs emphasised comfort and practicality, with simple lines and loose shapes that allowed women to move freely. The garçonne look, with its dropped waistlines and shorter hemlines, became the defining style of the era.
This newfound freedom in fashion extended beyond daywear. Evening dresses shimmered with sequins and beads, often featuring daringly low necklines and backs. The focus was on glamour and sophistication, with designers like Jeanne Lanvin creating exquisite gowns that captured the spirit of the age. While the banana dress as we know it, associated with Josephine Baker’s iconic performances, came a bit later in the decade, it’s important to remember that the seeds of this daring and expressive style were already being sown in the early 1920s.
Parisian fashion was all about pushing boundaries and embracing individuality. Accessories played a crucial role in completing the look. Cloche hats were omnipresent often tilted at a jaunty angle, while long strands of pearls added a touch of elegance. Women embraced makeup, with bold lipstick and rouged cheeks becoming fashionable. The fashion scene in 1920s Paris was a reflection of the city itself, dynamic, innovative, and unapologetically glamorous. It was a time when women dared to break the mould and express themselves through their clothing, leaving a lasting legacy on the world of fashion.
A WHIFF OF MODERNITY
The cultural and social change of this decade extended to the world of fragrance. Scents were considered more than just pleasant smells. They were an expression of the changing world and represented freedom, independence, and self-expression. Women were breaking free from traditional constraints, and their perfumes reflected this newfound sense of liberation. Gone were the heavy, overpowering scents of the past. In their place emerged lighter, more modern fragrances that captured the spirit of the age.
Perfumers experimented with new ingredients and techniques, creating scents that were both sophisticated and daring. Launched in 1921, Chanel No. 5 became an instant classic. This iconic fragrance embodied the modern woman, confident, elegant, and expressing herself. Its abstract, floral-aldehyde composition was revolutionary, and it quickly became a favourite of fashionable women. Guerlain was another brand that made its mark on the 1920s fragrance scene. Shalimar, with its sensual blend of vanilla, incense, and citrus, was a bold and exotic choice. It evoked images of faraway lands and passionate romance, perfectly capturing the era’s adventurous spirit. Other popular perfumes of the time included Lanvin’s Arpège, a floral symphony that exuded femininity, and Molinard’s Habanita, a smoky, woody scent that was considered quite daring for its time.
A FEAST FOR THE SENSES
The 1920s was also a time of culinary innovation and sensory exploration. Chefs and mixologists were pushing boundaries, experimenting with new combinations and techniques to create culinary experiences that were both exciting and memorable. The world of cocktails saw mixologists experiment with aromatic ingredients to create unique and tantalising concoctions. Lavender, with its calming floral notes, was used to infuse gin or vodka, adding a touch of elegance to classic cocktails like the Aviation. Citrus oils, such as lemon and orange, were staples in many drinks. They provided a refreshing zest to cocktails like French 75, which became a popular choice. When it came to culinary exploration, chefs embraced the use of herbs and spices to enhance flavours.
Rosemary, with its earthy and slightly piney aroma, was a popular choice for roasted meats and vegetables. Thyme, with its subtle minty and lemony notes, was used to season soups, stews, and sauces. Vanilla, with its warm and comforting scent, was a favourite in desserts. Almond extract, with its nutty and slightly sweet flavour, was another popular ingredient in baked goods. 1920s in Paris was a whirlwind of sensory delights, a cocktail of cultural revolution, daring fashion, intoxicating fragrances, and vibrant flavours. From smoky jazz clubs to elegant salons, the city pulsed with a creative energy that continues to resonate, leaving an indelible mark on the world of art, style, and joie de vivre.
Key elements of a creative fragrance formulation process
-By Thomas Amantea
VP Sales France and Italy, Ultra International
CONCEPT AND INSPIRATION
A clear creative vision or story behind the fragrance is crucial as it sets the direction for the composition. This inspiration can come from emotions, nature, culture, art, or even trends. Having a story or a defined vision helps anchor the creative process and creates a narrative that resonates with the end user.
However, creativity isn’t always linear. Sometimes, the vision emerges through experimentation and iteration. A creative perfume, much like art, often evolves as it is being crafted.
INGREDIENT SELECTION
The choice of ingredients defines the character of a fragrance. A mix of natural and synthetic ingredients brings complexity. While natural ingredients offer authenticity and richness, synthetics provide uniqueness (with captives), stability, and performance. Today, perfumers can access incredible materials in both natural and synthetic categories. Some perfumers choose to work exclusively with naturals, which is more challenging but offers a unique depth and authenticity. Regardless of the approach, knowing your materials and your accords—like a music composer knowing their notes and chords—is essential. This expertise allows a perfumer to translate creative ideas into the fragrance they are creating. Without it, creating a good creative fragrance is nearly impossible.
BALANCE OF NOTES
A successful fragrance relies on a harmonious interplay of top, heart, and base notes, ensuring it unfolds beautifully over time. The perfumer must carefully decide how the fragrance evolves: will it transition seamlessly from sparkling top notes to deep, rich base notes, or will it create the illusion of a singular, unchanging impression? This balance is akin to storytelling in olfactory form, where each note plays a role in the narrative arc of the fragrance, captivating the wearer from the first spray to the final lingering traces.
INNOVATION AND ORIGINALITY
Creativity often lies in pushing boundaries. Combining unexpected accords or emphasizing unconventional ingredients can give a fragrance its unique signature. Sometimes, focusing on a single, unexpected material in a composition can transform it into something truly memorable. This risk-taking and willingness to explore uncharted territories often set great perfumes apart from the ordinary.
TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE
Beyond creativity, a fragrance must meet functional and technical criteria. Longevity, diffusion, and adherence to regulatory standards are critical to ensuring the fragrance performs well in real-world conditions. An extraordinary fragrance that lasts only a few hours, or one that lacks projection, may fail to meet consumer expectations. A “technically good perfume” strikes the perfect balance between artistry and practicality, making it both memorable and wearable.
MARKET RELEVANCE
Understanding the target audience is crucial to aligning the fragrance with market expectations. For example, the preferences of Asian consumers may lean towards lighter, fresher scents, while European or American markets may favor richer, more complex compositions. Some niche perfumers deliberately disregard market trends to preserve their artistic freedom and authenticity. While this approach can result in groundbreaking creations, it depends entirely on the final objective of the product. Whether the goal is commercial success or artistic expression, the fragrance must resonate with its intended audience.
CONCLUSION
A creative fragrance formulation is both an art and a science. It demands a perfect balance of inspiration, technical expertise, and market awareness. Ultimately, the most successful fragrances are those that tell a compelling story, perform impeccably, and connect emotionally with their audience. “I believe creativity comes with knowledge, and they both need to work hand in hand to create a unique and magnificent perfume.”
– Thomas Amantea
Perfumery is an art that dates to ancient Greece. Once considered solely a tool for seduction, aromas, scents, and beauty, it is no longer sold as a superficial element, as feeling good gets equal weightage. What if fragrances could take away stress and make you smile with just a whiff? That is what neuroscents are offering. Neuroscents are mood enhancers, putting the power of feelings in the customers hands. Whether the need of the hour is the relax, feel energised or help focus, there is a scent serving each purpose. Today, companies are using AI and neuroscents to create formulas that are driven by individual choices. This is a wellness product line that offers solutions in multiple forms. You can use candles, diffusers, bath oils or creams to gain the “feel good” factor and add a bounce to your step.
SO, WHAT EXACTLY ARE NEUROSCENTS?
As the name suggests, these are scents that affect the brain. The research suggests that aromas are beneficial beyond the regular effects as fragrances work as sensitive triggers to make one feel elated, or energetic or even, improve sleep patterns. The tagline for neuroscents is ‘emotional benefits.’ It may seem like aromatherapy, but neuroscents are more in tune with aromachology– the study of influence of odours on human behaviour. It relates to the psychological, rather than therapeutic effect scents have on moods.
THE SCIENTIFIC ASSISTANCE
For decades international organisations have been trying to document the impact of scents on brains. The International Fragrance Foundation (IFF) has tested numerous fragrance notes and mapped trigger receptors in the brain. After conducting a detailed study involving neuroscience, and aided by AI, they identified six emotions that can be triggered by scents. Popular perfumery brands have used this research to create formulas tapping into these emotions. Floral scents seem to induce a calming effect, while woody citrus scents are an energising option. Musk, leather, and a blend of wood and floral scents create a recipe for a seductive fusion. Since neuroscents are at a nascent stage, product formulation happens under the guidance of neuroscientists. Like aromatic plant oils are used in case of skincare products, neuroscents use aromatic oils as well. The ingredients are either tested by scientists or appear in medical journals. And, in presentation, the end product is no different from other beauty products on the shelf that smell luxurious. Though, the sole intention of their creation is to impact emotions.
NEUROSCENTS MEAN BUSINESS
With neuroscents being ‘en vogue,’ beauty brands are investing in research and technology. L’Oreal partnered with a neurotechnology company to develop scent choice experiences. Yves Saint Laurent stores used headsets to map brain activity to understand individual behaviour pertaining to scents. They created electroencephalogram (EEG) to find the corelation between emotions and scents. Givenchy added rose extracts to its bestseller to enhance the appeal factor of the product. And, a Spanish fragrance firm collated brain readings from 45 million men to finesse their formula for a cologne. Neuroscents have offered a new line of products for niche perfumers as well. They are creating ultra-personal formulas. Brands in South Korea created personalised bath bombs using real time biodata. Netherlands boosts of an algorithm-based perfumery that delivers personalised aromas within minutes after analysing questionnaires filled by clients.
THE WINNING FORMULA
Which are the fragrances that can work as neuroscents? Rose is potentially one such aroma. It is known to heighten the release of serotonin, which is renowned for its happiness inducing effects. Bergamot is known to fuel endorphin release. Agarwood with a warm, sweet, smoky profile helps ease stress and increase relaxation. Agarwood aids in the reduction of hyperactivity between glands that respond to stress. This, in turn, modulates theta brainwaves, which are triggered in a state of relaxation and activities like meditation. These feel-good chemicals are known to increase the state of awareness.
THE ENTRY FORM
Neuroscents can be made part of the daily routine and the easiest way to introduce them is through scented candles. It is observed that a neuroscent candle is a nice way to start or finish a day. customers also enjoy using candles while cooking or doing chores around the house, as it creates a calm and soothing atmosphere. However, when used in the form of candles, neuroscents need time to alter the mood. So, it is suggested to keep them lit for a couple of hour.
DO NEUROSCENTS WORK?
Most neuroscientists will answer in the affirmative to the above. This is because the brain processes scents when inhaled. The olfactory nerve is stimulated with smells. This triggers a response in the amygdala, the part of the brain which is responsible for processing emotions. Ultimately, the cycle is complete with the release of neurotransmitters like endorphins and GABA. New research is now being aimed at using the power of neuroscents to improve memory and focus. Scientists believe that repeated exposure to certain scents can aid in the enhancement of cognition and memory at any age. During a study conducted by the University of california-Irvine, researchers focused on word recall tests. For six months they studied brain activity and used MRI scans to assess cognitive function and physical changes before and after the trial. The data showed a 226% improvement in cognitive performance for those using essential oils for a few hours in the night. They exhibited better verbal learning and memory compared to the control group. 75% of all human emotions are triggered by smell. Even then, the formula may not work for all. There is enough evidence to suggest that preference for scents is firmed in childhood. This is due to a process called imprinting, where the brain stores memories from the first experience of an aroma. Unpleasant ones are especially hard to alter. For example, if someone had a bad experience with the smell of rose, it is unlikely that perfumes or creams smelling like rose will release pleasure endorphins for this person. In today’s stressful environment, neuroscents could be a game changer. Giving an individual the power to choose their feelings, and elevate them by simply inhaling, is an intriguing proposition.
Over the last few years, multiple incidents across the globe have prompted a shift in the customer mindset towards immunity boosting and wellness foods. Functional foods and beverages have caught the imagination of the consumer. One is increasingly conscious of what one eats, and how it benefits the body. Though this is not a flash in the pan. For a while now, functional foods and beverages have been enticing customers. Since the pandemic, there has been a growing demand for foods that cater to specific body requirements, rather than provide a holistic wellbeing experience.
BUT IS IT A NEW CONCEPT?
Food and beverages have provided therapeutic benefits for centuries. In fact, it was first propagated by the father of medicine, Hippocrates over 2500 years ago. He said, “let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” Over time, focus shifted towards medical advancements, the importance of dietary intake took a backseat. However, the pandemic changed the scenario and put food front and centre again. Food and beverages with documented health benefits comprise this functional segment. Superfoods like kombucha, coconut water, matcha, goji, edamame, turmeric, black garlic, dragon fruit, are on most shopping lists. On the grains front, we see a significant increase in the demand for farro, chia, quinoa, and millet. Customers are hitting the functional food and beverage section to address issues related to sleep, energy, mood swings, concentration, skin, and hair ailments.
THE FUNCTIONAL FOOD AISLE
Functional snacks are a major segment that is being targeted by brands. In tune with customer requirements, they are offering products that tap into specific needs. For instance, there are several who seek an instant boost of energy. For them US coffee major, the Whole coffee co., developed a range of products. They created easily consumable bars from coffee beans that provide an instant energy kick. A common stress related aliment is sleep deprivation. Functional foods have increasingly been targeting this concern. Functional foods also help cognitive focus, which can be crucial for improved performance in the workplace. Apart from this, customers also seek beauty related solutions with functional foods. This segment has a vast scope, and companies are offering a wide range of products to improve skin, and hair quality, including sweets containing biotin, Vitamin E, and zinc.
DRINKS WITH AN EXTRA PUNCH
With regard to the beverage market, the consumer is looking for more than just hydration. The desire is beverages enhanced with minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and dietary fibres. Energy drinks were the pioneer product in the functional beverage segment. As they don’t offer any nutritional benefit, and contain high levels of sugar, there is a shift in consumer interest towards sports drinks and bottled water with added vitamins. These functional beverages provide additional health benefits. Kombucha, aloe vera, coconut water, green tea, and moringa tea are popular for their immunity boosting, stress relieving, antioxidant, and gut cleaning properties.
HEALTHY AND SWEET
The functional food industry is evolving and no longer restricted to healthy snacks and beverages. Confectionery has been a major contributor to the segment lately. Functional chocolates along with gelato and baking mixes are all the rage. Functional gums have been in the market for a while. Primarily made from xylithol and baking soda, these gums, are said to boost energy, cease smoke pangs, work as breath fresheners, help in tooth whitening and address calcium fortification. Functional jellies with herbal extracts and vitamins too are gaining popularity. Plantbased gelatos created from young coconut meat and carrying the goodness of matcha green tea, rosewater, and saffron are no longer left to imagination. Soothing chocolate chip mixes with holy basil, reishi, and ashwagandha are a reality too. And, frozen yogurt with probiotics, and non-dairy ice creams with a boost of vitamins are also gaining popularity. All these sweet pleasures offer something extra, making them popular entrants in the functional food and beverage space.
NATURALS ALL THE WAY
Another major draw towards functional food and beverages is their natural origins. Increased customer awareness has brought a shift in mindset. Pills and supplements are considered artificial. A vast majority are looking to complete their nutrition requirements through natural sources. Several global surveys have shown a remarkable bend towards natural sources of vitamins and nutrients.
MIND OVER MATTER
Today, people are vocal about mental health issues and they have become a primary focus. A recent international study noted that mental wellbeing was a common concern among all age groups. The current consumer is interested in foods that provide personalised nutrition requirements. Generic health and wellness food and beverages don’t have enough takers these days and eating well is more than just the food on the table. The concept of eating consciously- produced foods is gathering steam, since it is considered a healthy practice. Ethically and sustainably sourced food and beverages are being preferred. Customers are conscious of what they eat, and how it is produced. Green and environment-friendly certifications have gained immense importance in the customer’s mind. Functional food and beverages are here to stay. Increasing customer awareness is only aiding its rise. And, with health becoming the primary concern worldwide, this segment is bound to grow exponentially.
A captivating scent with intensity adding sensuality to fragrances and blends, patchouli has an ardent fan base. Its earthy, distinctive aroma instantly evokes the spirit of the 1970s, a decade dedicated to flower power. Patchouli has the distinct ability to linger on the skin for long durations. Its beautiful afterglow and long-lasting nature make it a striking combination. Laden with warm and sensual notes, patchouli has a rich, earthy, woody, and marginally sweet aroma. It has been a preferred fragrance for centuries, but the 1970s have a special connection with this aroma.
The origins
Native to Southeast Asia, patchouli has been a regular in perfumery for thousands of years. Initially used to treat skin ailments, the western world got enticed by this fragrance only in the 19th century. The origins of the name can be traced to Tamil Nadu in South India. In their native tongue, patchouli means ‘green leaf’. The plant left this southern Indian state captivated by its rich and deep aromatic palette. The Tamils primarily used patchouli for medicinal purposes, as an insect repellent, and even as an herbal formulation in teas.
The fragrance travelled to the Middle East via the Silk Route and it is believed that Europe was introduced to the exotic fragrance by none other than, Napoleon. These trade routes supplied exquisite textiles, spices, and other distinct objects to the west. To keep them free of moths and other insects, they were packed with patchouli leaves. Once these boxes were Unpacked, the fragrance of patchouli engulfed the merchants in Europe. Soon the aroma of patchouli came to define the exotic objects arriving from the Far East. This was the fragrance that symbolised everything contrary to western culture. Patchouli had already established itself as a rebellious fragrance.
Flower power connect
The 1970s were symbolised by rebellion, freedom and self-expression. Taking the mid-1960s revolution forward, this decade made “flower power” its slogan. It was an expression of passive resistance and non-violence. Coined by American poet Allen Ginsberg, the slogan transformed anti-Vietnam war protests into peaceful spectacles. Ginsberg encouraged people to hand out flowers to press, politicians, policemen, and spectators. The bohemian spirit, counterculture, distinctive, the essence of patchouli embodied the spirit of the decade. And it wasn’t a surprise to see patchouli emerge as the fragrance of choice for this transformative era. Advocates of flower power reveled in the glory of patchouli and were seen sporting the fragrance regularly. Its whiff was unmissable at key congregations like the iconic Woodstock festival.
Even for those referred to as hippies during the decade, the aroma became a strong ally. Men and women with a carefree spirit, casual dressing and sporting long hair were captivated by the slightly minty undertones and earthy aroma of patchouli. In fact, it is believed that young Americans and Europeans flocked India in the late 60s and early 70s and bought patchouli with them. The aroma of this native Southeast Asian plant created an aura of companionship in this decade.
“For centuries patchouli has been celebrated for its healing and soothing nature. It is known to promote a sense of tranquility and well-being.”
A multifaceted fragrance
For centuries patchouli has been celebrated for its healing and soothing nature. It is known to promote a sense of tranquility and well-being. Apart from being an enticing fragrance, it has various skin benefits. This herbal plant has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and several healing properties. The essential oil extracted is thus a popular ingredient in skincare products like creams, soaps and lotions.
• Skin and hair care: Patchouli possesses cleansing and fortifying properties. It works wonders to balance the sebum production of skin. The oil is thus a preferred choice in anti-dandruff preparations. It aids in reducing scalp irritations and encourages hair growth.
• Immunity booster: Patchouli’s antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral properties make it an excellent antidote for fighting infections. It prevents rashes or wounds from getting infected and works wonders in combatting nail fungi.
• Wellness Elixir: Patchouli has a soothing nature and is beneficial in relieving stress and ease the mind, body an soul. It can also heighten senses and provide an air of confidence due to its poignant, deep and musky aroma.
An evolved fragrance
From change in preferences to regulations, several factors have contributed to the transformation of fragrances. While the folks in the 70s preferred heavy, earthy fragrances, it is lighter, fresher and subtle aromas that are the rage today. Blends created today are catering to this market. Sustainable creations are the need and demand of today’s market and compositions have also been adjusted to take rare or disappearing ingredients into account. They have either been substituted with synthetic replacements or formulations altered to reduce their usage. These reformulations have impacted the strength, smell and staying power of fragrances. Patchouli has one of the most fascinating histories. From Napoleon Bonaparte and anti-war protests to its brush with fashion, patchouli has left its mark in each decade and the 70s revel in all its glory.
A personal experience describing the Orange situation in Brazil
-Felippe Biz, Ultra LATAM Sales Development manager
On a crisp morning, one of almost 15 days of “real Brazilian winter”, this year, I departed from São Paulo, Brazil’s bustling urban center, leaving behind the towering skyscrapers and the hum of city life. My journey led me deep into the heart of the Citrus Belt, toward the Southeast region of the state of São Paulo, where the landscape shifts dramatically from urban sprawl to sprawling grazing lands and sugar cane fields that stretch alongside the road.
As I drove, the scene outside my window told a tale of both beauty and devastation. The severe drought and high temperatures that Brazil has been grappling with this winter had left their mark on the land. Fields, once green and vibrant, bore the scars of fire and neglect, a stark reminder of the environmental challenges. The cold morning air, hovering at a brisk 8°C, hinted at the promise of warmth as the sun rose higher, gradually easing into a comfortable 18°C by midday. This trip was not just an escape from the city’s frenetic pace; it was a journey back to the land, to reconnect with the rhythms of nature and the subtle art of citrus farming.
Arriving at the farm, I was greeted by a breathtaking panorama of lush citrus orchards, their vibrant greens stretching as far as the eye could see. The air was alive with the buzzing of bees, diligently working among the blossoms, and the intoxicating scent of orange flowers filled my senses, evoking memories of simpler times. The farmer welcomed me with freshly brewed coffee, served in the traditional Brazilian style—strong, with generous amounts sugar. The taste transported me back to my childhood, to summers spent at my cousin’s house in the countryside, where the days were long and sweet, and the coffee always tasted of home.
As I wandered through the orchards, the serenity of the environment stood in sharp contrast to the hustle and bustle of São Paulo. The fields were alive with the energy of the new flowering season, a pivotal time for any citrus grower. The delicate fragrance of the blossoms signaled the promise of a bountiful harvest, yet the reality was far more complex. Over coffee in the farm’s main building, the owner shared his story—a tale of perseverance in the face of adversity.
He had dedicated over a decade to citrus farming, and this season was proving to be one of the most challenging yet. One of the biggest concerns this year is the significant drop in the average weight of the fruit. Last season, the fruit averaged between 200-220 grams, but this year, the weight had fallen to just 90-120 grams. The culprit? Unusual weather patterns that had plagued the region. From July to September, winter temperatures were 7°C higher than the decade’s average, stunting the growth and development of the fruit. This shift in climate also exacerbated the issue of premature fruit drop, further impacting overall production. And then there was the looming threat of greening disease, a relentless adversary that had already claimed its share of trees.
The conversation with the farm’s owner revealed the intricate balancing act required in modern citrus farming. He spoke of the fine line between meeting market demands and maintaining the health of the orchards, a delicate dance made even more precarious by the pressures of disease and climate change. Despite these challenges, the farm had secured a substantial contract for a significant portion of its production. This contract, while providing some financial stability, highlighted the complex dynamics at play.
The market is demanding, and producers are often forced to make tough decisions—like whether to hold fruit on the tree longer in hopes of higher prices, a choice that could disrupt future crops and ripple through the farm’s productivity for years to come.
As I prepared to leave the farm and begin the journey back to São Paulo, the complexities and rewards of citrus farming weighed heavily on my mind. This visit was more than just a tour of a farm; it was an immersion into the evolving challenges and enduring resilience of Brazil’s citrus industry. Here, in the heart of the Citrus Belt, the land is tended with a deep understanding of its rhythms, a place where the demands of commerce must coexist with the needs of nature. This journey reminded me of the profound connection between the land and those who work it—a connection that, despite the challenges, remains steadfast and true. As I drove away, the scent of orange blossoms lingered in the air, a fragrant reminder of the stories that this land has yet to tell.
Up in the hills, west of Nice, above the famous French Riviera city of Cannes, is the town of Grasse. It does not hold the popularity of its neighbouring cities, neither does it have the sea view. However, it has the most glorious fragrances. Thriving fields of flowers fill the air of Grasse with the aroma of jasmine, May rose, tuberose, and lavender. A confluence of soil, sun, and temperature nurture the most delicate of flowers, making it the perfume capital of the world.
BIRTH OF THE PERFUME CAPITAL
But Grasse didn’t set out to be the perfume capital. Its story begins with the foul odours of yesteryear. Till the 16th century Grasse was famous across Europe for its leather. The production process involved tanning, which produced a pungent smell. The nobility of the town did not take it well. To appease them a tanner from Grasse presented the then French Queen, Catherine de Medici, a scented leather glove. That was the spark that led to the birth of the fragrance industry. Slowly, the region started producing iris, hyacinth, and rose-scented soaps. And the town folk began supplying raw materials to Persian scent-makers.
THE SCENT OF GRASSE
The elements of nature nurtured flowers in this region. Back in the 17th century rose, jasmine, lavender, myrtle, and wild mimosa became the genesis of the French perfume industry. Today Grasse is globally popular for jasmine and May rose, a pale pink flower that blossoms in May. These flowers form the base of numerous popular fragrances across the world, including Chanel’s crown jewel, No. 5. In fact, the town of Grasse vivaciously celebrates the glorious aroma of jasmine and May rose every year. Festivals are held in Grasse to mark the scents that gave it the title of perfume capital. Luxury brands like Dior, Hermès, and Chanel actively contribute to the economy of the town. A while ago Dior also re-established the former residence of Christian Dior, the famous Château de la Colle Noire, in Grasse.
THE PRECISION OF PERFUME MAKING
Grasse’s ecology boasts of specimens dating back three centuries. During the industrialisation in the 19th century, perfumers ventured out and collected scent samples. They brought back fragrances likes patchouli from Singapore and pink pepper wood from California, though they did not alter the recipe of popular formulations. Precision is paramount in perfume making. For instance, perfumers in the region still use jasmine grown in Grasse for Chanel No. 5 since it was originally crafted with it. They explain that the same jasmine grown in Egypt or Morocco will be different because of the soil and climatic conditions.
Every year around 27 tonnes of jasmine are harvested in Grasse. The town possesses all the required technology from production to manufacturing extract. Now perfumers from across the globe arrive in Grasse to hone their sensory skills. The perfumeries and institutes here help those with the nose distinguish between over 2,000 scents.
THE CHARM OF GRASSE
Grasse exudes an old-world charm with a dash of modern brilliance. The city’s winding cobblestone streets are complemented by colourful cafes. One cannot walk by the lanes of Grasse without shops luring customers to their windows with scents of pastel soaps and perfumes. Architectural marvels hug the landscape of this medieval town. But the neighbouring areas possess rich soil and are blessed with a warm climate; the town provides the perfect environment for sweet-scented blossoms. Grasse also satiates the wanderlust of all those who pass through its borders. Grasse’s cathedral, Notre-Dame du Puy, marvels in the glory of Romanesque designs. Though modest in comparison to 
some others, the cathedral houses paintings by Peter Paul Rubens, and Jean-Honoré Fragonard, the man whose name is synonymous with the biggest fragrance house in the city. For a perfume lover, Grasse is a paradise. A trip to this quaint town can be embellished with the knowledge about the history of perfumes at Musée International de la Parfumerie. For those with a creative nature, perfumeries offer guided tours to go behind the scenes and comprehend the art of perfume making. And for those who have a nose for the process, the Grasse Institute of Perfumery offers a fragrant future.
A NATURAL COVER
Grasse owes its emergence as a perfume capital to nature’s blessing. The town is uniquely located between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, creating a balance ideal for cultivating delicate flowers. Its favourable weather with abundant sunshine, mild winters, and well-drained soil aids in the blooming of flowers. Today, the allure of jasmine, rose, mimosa, tuberose, and lavender attracts the fragrance and perfumery industry to this town. Grasse has been bestowed the status of World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Once you’ve stepped foot in the town of Grasse, the aroma lingers way after you leave its confines. This holds especially true if you are in the company of a few soaps, body sprays, and eau de toilette from the land of fragrances.
Vetiver oil, renowned for its unique, earthy aroma, has been a staple in perfumery and aromatherapy for centuries. Its deep, woody scent with sweet undertones captivates users worldwide. Traditionally, Haiti has been the gold standard for vetiver oil production, but recent developments highlight India’s emerging potential as a significant producer.
Ancient Roots in India and Asia
For over 2000 years, India has nurtured vetiver, not just for its aromatic allure but also for its soil conservation. The roots of this plant were ingeniously woven into mats, offering cool respite in sweltering climates. Beyond practicality, ancient Indians embraced vetiver’s aromatic qualities in perfumery, traditional medicine, and spiritual ceremonies, embedding its essence in their cultural fabric.
In Southeast Asia, particularly Indonesia, vetiver found similar acclaim for its cooling properties and fragrant essence. The roots were revered in herbal remedies, treating ailments from fevers to digestive woes, showcasing vetiver’s multifaceted healing powers.
Spread to Haiti and the Western World
The tale took a captivating turn with vetiver’s introduction to Haiti during the 18th-century French colonial era. Initially planted for erosion control, Haitian farmers soon unearthed the aromatic treasure within vetiver roots. Haiti’s nurturing climate birthed high-quality vetiver plants, leading to premium oil production prized globally for its intricate aroma and therapeutic virtues. Haitian vetiver oil has become highly sought after by perfumers and healers worldwide, solidifying Haiti’s position as a top supplier in the vetiver market. Haiti’s ideal growing conditions contribute to the high quality of its vetiver oil. Celebrated for its khusimol content, ranging between 10% and 15%. This vetiver oil offers a luxurious aroma prized by perfumers globally. However, the industry’s reliance on Haiti presents challenges. Political instability and security issues introduce significant supply risks, prompting the search for alternative sources.
The government encounters various challenges in managing the supply chain for vetiver oil, which could significantly impact the industry. Haiti’s dynamic political landscape, characterised by frequent changes in government and periods of unrest, can influence business operations, including vetiver oil production and distribution. This environment may lead businesses and investors to exercise caution when committing resources, impacting the overall supply chain. Security considerations also play a role, as crime rates and the presence of armed groups can affect businesses and supply chain operations in Haiti. Issues such as theft and
vandalism might disrupt transportation routes, leading to potential delays and product losses, which in turn influence the movement of vetiver oil within and outside the country. In terms of infrastructure development, Haiti’s roads, ports, and logistics facilities present opportunities for improvement in areas such as maintenance, capacity, and technology. Addressing these areas can help reduce inefficiencies, transportation delays, and costs for businesses involved in the supply chain. The regulatory framework in Haiti can be complex, presenting challenges for businesses in terms of compliance, permits, and bureaucratic processes. Streamlining regulations and ensuring consistency can help create a more favourable environment for companies operating in the sector. Furthermore, increased investment in infrastructure, technology, and training within the vetiver oil industry can enhance its growth and competitiveness. By securing adequate resources and focusing on modernisation efforts, the supply chain can better meet international standards and market demands.
For over 2000 years, India has nurtured vetiver, not just for its aromatic allure but also for its soil conservation. The roots of this plant were ingeniously woven into mats, offering cool respite in sweltering climates.
India’s Emerging Promise: A Viable Alternative
India, with its rich history of aromatic plants and essential oils, is now recognised as a promising alternative source for vetiver oil. Particularly in regions like Pondicherry, Indian vetiver oil exhibits a khusimol content between 11% and 13%, closely matching that of Haitian vetiver. The aroma profile of Indian vetiver oil, known locally as “khus,” is remarkably similar to the Haitian variety,making it a suitable substitute in high-end applications.
Why Indian Vetiver Oil is Gaining Ground
Several factors contribute to the growing prominence of Indian vetiver oil as a viable alternative to Haitian vetiver:
• Quality and aroma: Indian vetiver oil has a deep, earthy, and woody fragrance with sweet undertones, highly valued in perfumery and aromatherapy. Its consistent quality and fragrance profile are appreciated by perfumers and essential oil users.
• Reliable supply chain: India benefits from a stable political environment, ensuring a more reliable and consistent supply of vetiver oil compared to Haiti. This stability is crucial for industries that depend on a steady flow of high-quality raw materials.
• Advanced cultivation techniques: Indian farmers employ advanced and sustainable agricultural practices, resulting in higher yields and superior quality oil. This innovation in farming aligns with global standards of environmental sustainability.
• Cost efficiency: The lower production costs in India, due to affordable labour and efficient farming methods, make Indian vetiver oil competitively priced without compromising on quality.
• Sustainable practices: India has made significant progress in promoting eco-friendly farming practices. Sustainable agriculture and fair trade are increasingly important factors for consumers and companies focused on environmental impact.
Indian Vetiver Oil Compared to Haitian Vetiver
Indian vetiver oil has several unique attributes and advantages:
• Quality and aroma: Indian vetiver oil boasts a unique, superior aroma that is deeper and more complex compared with Haitian vetiver. Its versatility makes it ideal for applications in perfumery, cosmetics, and aromatherapy.
• Sustainability and ethics: India’s commitment to sustainable farming and fair-trade practices supports the livelihoods of local farmers and appeals to environmentally conscious consumers.
• Stable supply quality assurance: The reliability and stability of India’s supply chain ensure a consistent availability of high-quality vetiver oil. Rigorous quality control measures help maintain high production standards.
• Cost advantage: Indian vetiver oil offers a cost-effective option without compromising on quality, providing better value for money compared to Haitian vetiver.
• Cultural heritage: The rich history and traditional use of vetiver in India add cultural and historical significance to the product.
In conclusion, the journey of vetiver oil from Haiti to India unveils a rich legacy and a promising future for this aromatic treasure. While Haiti has long been esteemed for its high-quality vetiver oil, India’s emergence as a significant producer offers a viable alternative. With similar khusimol content and aroma profile, Indian vetiver oil is a testament to innovation and sustainability in the essential oil industry. As consumers increasingly value quality, ethics, and environmental responsibility, India’s commitment to these principles positions its vetiver oil as a compelling choice for perfumers, aromatherapists, and conscious buyers worldwide.
I have long had the opportunity to travel the world visiting growing areas and production facilities for flavoring and fragrance materials. The chance to see these remote locations and meet the people who live and work there has always felt like a wonderful privilege. Since many raw materials are long distances from normal tourism stops, the local hotels and transport were spartan and you needed to be quite adventurous. But today, as more people are choosing to travel, they are looking for new experiences and, since essential oils have expanded their reach to consumers around the world, they are interested in seeing where these natural ingredients are grown and processed. This has created an opportunity for these facilities to earn extra income between the crop seasons and expand awareness among consumers.
During the last few years, I have noticed that vanilla growers in several locations have expanded connections with local tour operators and they are now offered as excursions from resort hotels or cruise ships. While I often visited vanilla plantations as a member of the flavor industry, it has been different to see similar locations as a tourist and see how tourists react to the opportunity to see a working farm and talk to the owners. I will highlight a few of the vanilla related locations I have visited as examples, but it certainly being done by other essential oil producers and probably significantly expanded.
TAHA’A (FRENCH POLYNESIA)
While the Tahitian islands (French Polynesia) are well known for their unique vanilla species to those in the flavour industry, average consumers do not really understand the flavour difference in the Vanilla x tahitensis variety. On a cruise, I had the chance to visit a small producer on the island of Taha’a via a shore excursion organised by Holland America. We took a small boat from Raiatea and visited a very small vanilla field and the owners explained how they pollinated the flowers and when the green beans were ripe, how they cured them to produce finished vanilla beans. They had a little shop selling a small variety of vanilla-related items and other souvenirs. Our small group of about 20 walked near the small open-air growing area of several hundred vanilla plants. They highlighted that there were several other small local growers from whom they purchased the green beans, so they had a larger volume to process. They said that their production was about 10-20 tons. Clearly the small collection of plants where they described the process were probably only for show, but nearby we passed several modern fields with netting and security fencing to prevent unauthorised access to the plants.
REUNION
Reunion Island was once a major source of vanilla beans, in fact, the common term Bourbon vanilla relates to Reunion which used to be known as Bourbon Island. While the island has a vibrant agricultural sector, it has rapidly expanded as a tourist location due to its weather, biodiversity, scenery, and cultural diversity. As a French overseas territory, it is a popular destination for French tourists.
During a recent cruise stop in Reunion, I took an excursion to visit a local vanilla producer. I was impressed with their facilities designed to welcome visitors to their small plantation. They had a nice visitor centre with a small store where visitors could buy vanilla and other tourist items. They had a nice room with posters showing the process of growing and curing vanilla beans. They offered vanilla-flavoured coffee to sample when we arrived. They could receive two buses at once but they divided the group into smaller groups of about 15 to tour their vanilla plantings and they explained the process in detail and answered questions. They had two nice fields fenced and covered with netting to provide the necessary shading. There was also a field shaded with small trees allowing the vines to be supported, this would have been the traditional process. After touring the vanilla plants, they sold a lot of vanilla extract, beans, and other souvenirs.
NEW CALEDONIA
Earlier this year, I visited Lifou, New Caledonia on a cruise ship and again my excursion talked about local vanilla cultivation. My tour involved a hike through their native forest where they explained how the local inhabitants maintain a strong connection to their environment. Vanilla cultivation is an opportunity for them as it does not involve clearing the forests. Small farms can be created yielding a high-value crop and they are also linking them with tourism to enhance the overall value of the crop. New Caledonia is a French colony with significant political autonomy, but the local Kanak indigenous people determine how they use the land. An excursion exploring Kanak culture and connections to local vanilla production allowed us another chance to explore vanilla tourism.
THE FUTURE
It would be useful to look closer at the economics of vanilla producers who are able to add tourism to their business model. It will vary based on the location, but clearly regions with strong tourism can tap into this trend. In a similar way to how wineries have capitalised on tourist visits to wineries, aroma industry producers have the opportunity to selectively expand their capability to support tourism. Adding tours, restaurants, demonstrations, shopping, etc. can expand the business and often support seasonal or year-round traffic. Consumer awareness of aroma-related materials has expanded over the last decade and with an expanded interest in unique experiences, consumers will be attracted to a well-designed tourism activity.